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(bit urgent) Which thermostaats are supported?

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  • instead of the danfoss valves, you can also use 
    http://www.robbshop.nl/ekomet-z-wave-radiator-thermostaatkraan
    this valve does report back the current temperature (I have 2 of them).
  • Still don't see why you wanna get a temperature back from the valve. An external sensor measures the temp and opens or closes the valve. You don't wanna measure the temp that close to the radiator, right?
  • If u want a report back wetter the valve is open or closed I can understand tho
  • Thanks all this far.
    I'm also thinking to power shut my floor heating pump if water temp is below xyz (external messurment offcourse) this way i can save a lot on electric as the pumps seems to run all day now.
    So if sensor 123 all report in the range of 19 and 21, temp. reached. shut valve to give back the heating to other rooms needed, shut off pump by klik aan klik uit or so.
    Temp drops below 20 or so, turn on pump, open radiator
  • @tunf;
    Great plans, hope you get it work with a good WAF :smile: 

    I "exactly" had your plan in my home and it was a pain in the . . . :neutral: 
    Reading sensors, sending the right opentherm command to the gas  boiler, open/closing valves on time, etc. 
    It "worked" but it was a pain in the . . . to configure, change (seasonal) (preset) temps, make it flexibel enough to let the Wife work with it, etc. etc.

    Believe me; Honeywell Evohome is every Euro worth it....

    Easy to install, plug and play, app, zones, timetabels per room/zone, etc. etc. etc.
  • Don't forget the bypass!
    And tell your kaku from the pump  to let it pump every 24 hours for like 5 minutes.
    Your pump will get stuck during the summer.
  • MarcoFMarcoF Member
    edited February 2016
    @Rocodamelshe ;
    I power down our floorheating pump every end of march and plug it back in mid september.
    The other months it runs 24/7 

    Pump runs like a "tiet" for more then 6 year :naughty: 



  • Some peeps are lucky. The manufacturer tells us to run it every now and then to prevent damage. Most heating systems has a build-in thingie to run the pump every 24 hours for like 5 minutes. My floor heating system doesn't have a pump so it's no issue for me.
  • MarcoF said:
    @Rocodamelshe ;
    I power down our floorheating pump every end of march and plug it back in mid september.
    The other months it runs 24/7 

    Pump runs like a "tiet" for more then 6 year :naughty: 



    Plan is to let is start if heating is needed or run 5 min. a day so don't worry. Also there are 2 bypasses available.
    Looked at the honeywell evhome as well. looks great and what i need but the amount of money they ask is really to much.
  • @tunf;
    I have no Honeywell stocks :smile: 

    I hope you get it work and maybe Homey can make the difference.

    Lets talk over a few months :smile: 

    (the manual of our pump (Grundfoss Alpha2) doesn't tell to run it X min. every X hour/days or to prevent long down times)

  • MarcoF said:

    Believe me; Honeywell Evohome is every Euro worth it....

    Only thing I don't like about evo is the temperature in the bedrooms are measured at the themostat fixed on the valve, 10 centimeters away from the radiator.
    It should be measured in the center of the room in my opinion.
    Ow, don't like the price also.
  • Little txt Grundfos:

    Door de pomp tijdens de zomer met minder vermogen te laten draaien, verhoogt u de energie-e ciëntie

    De nieuwe ALPHA2 is de meest energie-e ciënte circulatiepomp in zijn klasse. Dit kwam naar voren uit een vergelijkende test die is uitgevoerd door het onaf- hankelijke instituut vDe. Dankzij de zomerstand van de ALPHA2 kan de huiseigenaar de pomp gedurende de zomermaanden helemaal uitschakelen om zo het energiegebruik tot een minimum te beperken. De pomp start elke 24 uur op en draait dan minder dan een minuut op maximale snelheid om de pomp en de terugslagkleppen te activeren. 

  • MarcoF said:

    Believe me; Honeywell Evohome is every Euro worth it....

    Only thing I don't like about evo is the temperature in the bedrooms are measured at the themostat fixed on the valve, 10 centimeters away from the radiator.
    It should be measured in the center of the room in my opinion.
    Ow, don't like the price also.
    True it's not optimal but it's not that bad either IMHO.
    It's not above the radiator but next to the radiator, not in the direct radiation heating area (which is mostly on top, in the front and in the back of the radiator).
    "Cold" (current room temperature) air flows from the bottem of the room, through the radiator and exits as "hot" air to the ceiling.
    So it will probably measure the air next to the radiator..
    For the check you can do a measurement with a temperature sensor at your normal location and see the differences.
    I personally think this will not be that much (not measured myself).




  • Think ur right but in lots of not that well insulated homes the radiator is placed on the coldest position in the room. So 20 degrees on the thermostat (evo) will different from the windchill.
    Also the height of the thermostat (evo) will affect the windchill. The evo is placed like 70 cm high, dependent on the size of the radiator. Normal thermostats will be placed at like 1,5 meters.
  • With EvoHome its possible to set a wireless wall-thermostat as temperature reference point for a room or zone. Used this for our bathroom :smile: 
    In a lot of cases the radiator thermostat is place at impossible location so a easy accessible wall-thermostat on a good point.

    @Rocodamelshe;
    Where did you find that piece of text?

    Radiator size doesn't matter much, it the temperature of the gas boiler which is more decisive.
    A 100x50cm radiator running on 40°c water will have a much colder direct surrounding then a 50x50 radiator on 70°c.

    I'm very curious to all of your findings/experiences on this zone based heating :smile: 

    Good luck and all the best :smile:  :heart: 

  • RocodamelsheRocodamelshe Member
    edited February 2016
    The height of the evo is depending on the size of the radiator. 
    Txt is from Grundfos website:
    https://nl.grundfos.com/content/dam/dutch/FLYERS&BROCHURES/Nieuwe ALPHA2 brochure.pdf
  • The drawback with the Evo system is the fact that it's closed without API available.

    I started a topic like this some time ago: https://forum.athom.com/discussion/595/how-does-multi-zone-heating-work-when-using-remote-controlled-radiator-valves

    With all the great ideas mentioned above I'm still wondering how you guys plan to control the valves (open/close). For as far as I understand you can only send a set point, but you have no control over the opening and closing of the valve.
  • @Rocodamelshe;
    That text suggests the pump runs to prevent non-return valves get stuck. The text/brochure/manual doesn't say its for a longer lifetime of the pump. All these new pump are highend DC pump and that's a totally different design then the AC pump of 10-20 years ago.



    And indeed its the height of the thermostat that important. Again a radiator size doesn't matter. 
    Most vertical placed  radiators have the thermostat at the bottom (10-20cm from the ground) or at the top (>=200cm) and can work great if the height is taken in consideration when settings the knob to a certain temperature.

    Most thermostat knobs are 20°c on position 3 around 100cm from the ground.
    Is the knob <100cm and you want 20°c, you need to put the knob on around 2.5. 
    Is the knob >100cm and you want 20°c, you need to put the knob on around 1,5. 

    Its that easy.
  • So u need to set the temperature sometimes at 21 to reach the 20 u need in the room, that's what I meant.
    And with size of the radiator I meant the height of the radiator of course.
    And if u think the pump doesn't get stuck while standing still:
    In my last 36 years as a heating engineer I did replace some pumps
  • With ❤️ Ofcourse 
  • Michael said:
    The drawback with the Evo system is the fact that it's closed without API

    With all the great ideas mentioned above I'm still wondering how you guys plan to control the valves (open/close). For as far as I understand you can only send a set point, but you have no control over the opening and closing of the valve.
    That is a real drawback! no api is no go.

    I think the valve can be closed;
    Open-window function
    living connect® features an Open-window function,
    which closes the valve if the room temperature is
    falling dramatically, thus reducing the heat loss.
    The heat is turned off for up to 30 minutes, before
    living connect® returns to its original settings.
    When Open-window has been activated, the
    function is quarantined for 45 minutes.

    I think this schould be possible to set using zwave then.
  • Just found out that danfoss also have a zwave kettle connect unit https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjPnoGF8OjKAhUGZg8KHd0UCK0QFggeMAA&amp;url=http://heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/Danfoss-Link_BR_Installation_VIFZM202.pdf&amp;usg=AFQjCNH6Z3iCsY_rIgA6mv_Q92ITY1oeng&amp;bvm=bv.113370389,d.ZWU&amp;cad=rja

    Using this is what i think i need. still doubt about the dafoss link cc touch interface.
    Will this be needed or otherwise can i use this to also controll other homey stuff on the touch interface?
    @emiel it seems to be zwave so is an api needed or will this work (someday)?

  • MarcoFMarcoF Member
    edited February 2016
    @Rocodamelshe;
    Do you have figures that supports your point? I don't have them and my pump is working great after 6 year and i'm not scared that it will die the upcoming 6 years because of the 6 month not running. With 36 year experience you probably have your paths through this world and its a piece of cake to get your hands on some figures about the DC pumps.

    Height != (totally different to) size, I didn't expect such a mistake with 36 experience.
    Have got some heating guys around in the house and non of them did something right the first time. The company that installed our gas boiler (is standing still for 11 month now) managed to switch the heating pipes (directions). We came from >1000m3 gas annually and flow temperature of >=55°c to 2600kWh (heatpump) and <=35°c flow temp. The last 10 years i completely change/renovation our heating system, replace 30-40m of 22mm pipes with more direct 15mm pipes to single radiators/floorheating, added a bunch of Jaga Low H20 with Booster parallel to single plate radiators (triple heat emission)
    Ditched zone/room heating and the house is for >=70% heated.

    Result; Mega Big time WAF 

    EvoHome is semi open/closed and definitely not closed (OK maybe through the license path its closed?!)
    There's a EvoHome nodeJS lib and some guys of Domoticz managed to connect EvoHome to there domotica system.

    @Michael;
    You need to set a desired setpoint and room temperature in some sort of script/code/flow.
    The valve will open if the roomtemp below desired setpoint and the valve will close if the roomtemp > setpoint. Very simple.
    So if Homey supports the Danfoss or other Zwave thermostats as a "Thermostat device" then it should be possible to set room and desired temp and the valve should act to that.

    @tunf;
    Which gasheater/boiler do you have? If its a on/off device, you could simply use a Zwave relay device. If its a OpenTherm device, the you could use something like this;
    http://www.robbshop.nl/benext-heating-control
  • MarcoF said:
    @Rocodamelshe;


    Height != (totally different to) size, I didn't expect such a mistake with 36 experience.

    Size refers to the concept of things, usually physical objects, having measurements that are relatively greater or lesser than other things along certain dimensions in physical space, such as lengthwidthheightdiameterperimeterareavolume, or mass. In mathematical terms, "[s]ize is a concept abstracted from the process of measuring by comparing a longer to a shorter".[1] Size is determined by the process of comparing or measuring objects, which results in the determination of the magnitude of a quantity, such as length or mass, relative to a unit of measurement. Such a magnitude is usually expressed as a numerical value of units on a previously established scale, such as meters or inches.

    Source: wiki!
  • Thanks and i know that.

    But we were talking about the location of a temperature sensor and height (in cm from ground level) places a significant role in temperature measurement. 
    I talked about that size (dimensions of the radiator) does not matter on what the temperature sensor is measuring.
    The height (from ground level) of a sensor is very important because physics laws determine hot air goes up, so the higher a sensor is place in a room the higher the temperature it measured compared to sensors place significantly lower. 

    So indeed the are sizes/sizes and height/height. But we were talking about the height a sensor is placed and thats totally different to size.
  • if I tell you the height of the sensor depends on the size of the radiator you don't understand what I'm talking about?
    Well, I think you do.
    Lets get back on topic and find out what thermostats are useable.
    I think it depends on the situation and there are a lot of different situations.
    Now give us a list with usable thermostats with the situation it's used in.

  • MarcoFMarcoF Member
    edited February 2016
    I'm not a dumbass :mrgreen: 

    The size of a radiator is not(!) the height of the (thermostatic) radiator knob.

    You as no other should known that not all radiator knobs are at the top of the radiator.
    All our Jaga's have the knobs on the bottom.
    We have 5 jaga's in the house, all 5 are hanging 10-30cm from the ground, all are 40-80cm height and the knob are all 15-35cm the ground.

    So height is not size or the other way around and not all radiator have the knobs on top.
    This is important and something people should take in account.

    ok, lets get back on topic;
    What thermostats are we looking for?
    • Radiator/Wall types?
    • Standalone?
    • WiFi?
    • Smart/Dump? 
    • Zwaved?
    • Supported by Homey?
  • MarcoF said:
    EvoHome is semi open/closed and definitely not closed (OK maybe through the license path its closed?!)
    There's a EvoHome nodeJS lib and some guys of Domoticz managed to connect EvoHome to there domotica system.

    See also:
    https://github.com/watchforstock/evohome-client


  • For shutdown of the pump for your floor heating system when no heating is needed you can also use the eco pump switch HY-02. I think it is more convenient than creating flows with the Homey. However, for people who want to log the power consumption of the pump Homey will be better.
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