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The Homey Community has been moved to https://community.athom.com.
This forum is now read-only for archive purposes.
The Homey Community has been moved to https://community.athom.com.
This forum is now read-only for archive purposes.
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45€: ZWave+ / Temp-coded led (if you want to use it) / Better waranty
In the end, it won't make that much difference and you have less of a risk of burning down your house.
Your choice
Deutch model also gives a risk on losing you money or making big costs when a module go bad. This when you need to send it back on your costs. The dutch webstores sell for €60-65,=
Can somebody do a calculation of the chance more go bad?
You're right, the Neo's are more interesting at first sight. We'll just have to wait and see if they are reliable enough.
Someone can remember the Dutch article about bad USB chargers sold all over the place? The article strongly adviced people to not use them and in the end many 10.000 pieces are sold/used.... did the all explode? send all users it back?
Yes there's a risk, but I would not over react.
Also the well known and respected brands like Samsung, Apple, and also gasburners, electric cooking devices, wood-stoves, etc. etc.
2 weeks after today I will have 7 Neo plugs and 1 floodsensor.
Will report if one of them go bad.
The risk of this happening is probably larger with Chinese devices but it's not like it's all crap. I use a lot of Chinese stuff in the house and overall I'm quite happy with the price/quality ratio.
This is just bad luck, might of even happened with a Fibaro wall plug as I had limited space and might have forced it into it to much. Pretty sure this will not happen out of the blue so any extra risk on fire in the house is neglectable.
Of course the choice is yours.
Working like a charm!
So on current there's 37% headroom.
On 110V its 1430W (110V*13A)
On 230V its 2990W (230V*13A)
Max current, so max power.
Continuous power is a different story.
And don`t just assume the 230V. In UK at many places we have >240V.
According to my colleagues (electrical engineers) it is max 13A or max 2000W what ever come's first.
It will probably handle a max of 2200W but it can not handle a max of 2990W according to them.
Im not a electrical engineer so im not gonna discus this further, just noticed it and want you guys to be careful.
Given above discussion, I checked the power plug, box and manual...
The power plug itself does not show the 2000W, nor does the box and manual.
See below scan of the first 2 pages of the NEO Coolcam power plug (could not find it on the internet):
So I don't know where the 2000W max is coming from; will inquire at the vendor...
Just a side note: again on sale at Aliexpress (for the next 2 days):
https://forum.athom.com/discussion/2377/
It's not on the plug??
Will try to disassemble one plug tonight.
I asked for a clarification from the vendor and manufacturer; still awaiting feedback...
Gotta love those Chinese engineers :P
So no problem what so ever and please go work at Apple... They do the patent bashing game real good.
They passed all European certifications also the ones of the z-wave Alliance.
The risk of a fibaro catching fire is as big as a neo.
If so far just seen one plug that short circuited and the user confirmed that he had put some force on it to put his plug into it so i guess the metal that goes arround the pikkie of the plug bend or broke off.
Seen many blown fibaro plugs on all kinds of forums this last year.
Nevertheless, the design is so that a short circuit just gives a big bang and no fire.
I'm just the guy with the most plugs and sensors in NL
Got my PIR and water sensor today.
To me it looks like a very good module.
The relay the used;
Hstp relais hf7520
Relais is 16A max and 8A with a 0.4cos.
Relais also looks very solid.
Also looking at the 230V connects/soldering I can't see how this can be shorted.
It should taken a lot of force to break things inside this.
the cheap version of the z-wave chip
i so hope it's not 0.4 cosinus, that's HORRIBLE and kinda weird in such a small relay (1.0 = best, 0.0 = worst)
and depending on what type it is (1C or 1A) it's a big difference with switching,
1C: most likely the type used
max constant
10A
2500VA (not Watt!)
1A:
max constant
16A
4000VA (not Watt! wattage given = 300W but they probably meant 3000W)
It was @Phuturist who had the spike/shorting after applying a lot of force to the plug.
Based on the solid soldering, connectors, etc. I conclude it should be A LOT force to break this.
Is this is a horrible relay?
even though there is a physical barrier (paper?) around 1 of the contacts. <= kinda weird
i think it was just a bad part that is (was?) inside that blew up when the plug was inserted and let a flow of power go around in the module
maybe something blocked the plug (the round capacitors could be bend infront of 1 of the plug pins
but a little hard to say with just these photos
the relay is ok, don't know the brand though, but hey, it's chinese
it's more most likely rated for 2000-2200W for devices with motor(s) inside, newer washing machines are a little bit better with cosinus so i guess the newer washing machines (less then 2-3 years) you can go up to 2300-2400W
Relay brand is HSTP (see pdf).
for now one of these plugs is running great with our GroheRed 1800-1900W measured by the plug (2200W on paper).