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Lights and switches

Just a quick question and probably a simple answer

If I use the light bulbs from Ikea or Hue for example, Do I have to change all the light switches in my house as well? As I see it now if someone manually switches the lights off their status doesn't correspond with homey anymore and flows don't work like they should

Comments

  • lubbertkramerlubbertkramer Member
    edited November 2017
    When you want to use them with manually switches that will not work because you cut the power when turning it off Homey can't reach the lights. Hue/Lifx/Ikea lights need always power on them
  • When you want to use them with manually switches that will not work because you cut the power when turning it off Homey can't reach the lights. Hue/Lifx/Ikea lights need always power on them
    Ok, So i'll have to replace the switches then.

    How do other users do this? Do you guys have everything automated and don't touch any switches at all?
  • glijieglijie Member
    edited November 2017
    i didn't replace my switches.
    I leave them on and switch the hue lamps on time or with a motion sensor or other sensors.
    So i don't touch the switches downstairs at all
  • I have put behind all switched I would like to use, for other people for example, or maybe to activate a scene, a fibaro switch 2.
    And made the black wire the blue wire as those need a blue wire (null)
    So that I didn't need to pull a new wire, and easy to change back whenever I want to move, not always a possibility of course.

    I did replace all switches to momentary switches, but that's just a different inside, the outside still looks the same

    And just connected the lamp directly to mains in the ceiling junction box.
  • @caseda ;
    I am not sure how you have implemented this...especially 'making the black (=schakeldraad) wire the blue wire'.

    Do you mean that the switch still operates the attached hardwire (a lamp or what ever), but the Fibaro relay does not switch anything (output is not used), and simple sees that a the wall switch was switched?

    Could you be so kind to make a simple diagram to show how you have done this?


  • I just detached the black wire from the lamp itself, and put it into the blue wire's wire connector(?, I'm an electrician but don't even know the English name of a "lasdop"!?)
    And added a small piece of brown wire from the brown wire's connector to the lamp

    Don't use the output of the switch 2 at all, so just the real switch and the power is connected to the switch 2, that is why I chose for the switch 2, as the dimmer 2 apparently needs a load connected to the output.

    I can draw something quick when I get home this evening if you still wish so.
  • That would be helpfull.

  • Yes please!

    Thanks! 
  • You can add a KlikAanKlikUit switch inside the junction box if you have a black wire (schakeldraad) to switch the light on first. It acts as a second, or third, hotelschakeling. So, switch on first and do rest of the Flow (maybe with some delay).
  • casedacaseda Member
    edited November 2017
    The red square (rectangle) is the ceiling junction box
    when you have a normal switch, with no wall socket below/beside it you have the brown and black wire going to the switch.
    the red dots are the wire connectors that are in the ceiling box

    if you have a pretty new house (or electrical installation) you will have those easy insert connectors,

    if they are twist connector, then you are in bit of unlucky state and probably need to replace them

    if there IS a wall socket you don't need to use the black wire as the blue wire (null), but you can of course use the wall socket's blue wire as the null for the switch 2



    just a tip, never remove or shorten a wire, it's pretty troublesome if you need to add it back, or if the new owners need to do it.

  • Thanks!

    Will examine this after some sleep...
  • @caseda

    Which relay is this, the FGS-222 or FGS-223?
  • The fgs-2x3 (yes the single and double, so actually not the relay :wink:), since it has scene activation.
    But both should work the same connection wise.

    If you then ask why double? Since at the time of buying it was 50 entire eurocents cheaper then the single.
    Did the single only because I wanted it for creating/testing the driver.
  • Thanks again! 
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