[Solved] Fibaro Roller shutter 2 with Relais boxes.

obeliks

I have several screens connected with Fibaro Roller Shutter 2. Works fine!

Now I have 3 screens, working together from 1 manual switch. Because there are 3 of them, they need Somfy Relais boxes.
I installed a Fibaro Roller shutter 2 for these screens, but the only thing happens, is that the screen moves for 1 second and then it stops.
I think the problem are the boxes: https://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1688839 (Dutch)

Can somebody help? I think the solution of the Tweakers website is not nice; I hope that I can solve it from Fibaro or Homey...

RuudvB

I have the same setup, 3 screens, working quite well using a single Fibaro roller shutter 2 (FGR-222). All my screens work on 240V without any relais. I simply connected all wires of the same color into a single output and connected that to the FGR-222. This works perfectly.

Only thing when installing that I came across was the calibration via homey. It took some fiddling outside at the up/down delimiters for each screen.

The power usage for a single screen/motor is around 100+ watt, the 3 combined take 300+ watt

JaapPelt

An relatively easy solution is to "fake" the calibration. It's a bit of work, but it works like a charm.

Hook the FGR-222 up the power, but instead of connecting the blinds, connect a light bulb and a manual switch.
What you are going to do is mimic the timing of the blinds by flipping the light switch. All you have to do is to simulate the power cut of a motor at approximately the time it takes for your blinds to change position. It doesn't hurt to add an extra 2 seconds just to be on the safe side. 
The easy way to do is is to use a stopwatch and measure the time your blinds need to go up or down.
When you run the fake calibration, you use the manual switch to kill power after x time. You have to listen to the clicking sound of the FGR-222 relay and turn the power back in time for the second cycle. 

I read it is possible to set the up and down timings using the z-wave command class parameter 22, but I don't know how.

obeliks

Ok, thank you both. @RuudvB : for my screens the relais-boxes are mandatory, because of peduling of the screens (different motors).

Does one of you both know what ROLLER BLIND MODE WITH and WITHOUT POSITIONING means?

RuudvB

obeliks said:

Ok, thank you both. @RuudvB : for my screens the relais-boxes are mandatory, because of peduling of the screens (different motors).

Does one of you both know what ROLLER BLIND MODE WITH and WITHOUT POSITIONING means?

Ok, your scenario is different because of the motors..

I use the _WITH_ positioning. This allows met to close the screens at a certain percentage. F.I. in spring (march-april) I close the screen 50% because the remaining opening allows to bring extra temperate to the rooms. From May to August I close them 65% because of otherwise overheating. Maybe 65% needs to be 70% or 75% I'm still experimenting with this.

To my knowledge, _WITHOUT_ positioning it only works as open/close all the way.

obeliks

So @JaapPelt , I can get a Fibaro straight from the box, connect it like you said, and then? Then first add it to Homey and from there do the calibration by turning on the light? Or?

JaapPelt

obeliks said:

So @JaapPelt , I can get a Fibaro straight from the box, connect it like you said, and then? Then first add it to Homey and from there do the calibration by turning on the light? Or?

@obeliks I think it is best to add it to Homey first, then calibrate manually, then install it in it's final position, then test if it all works as expected.

I cannot recall if adding it to Homey triggers a re-calibration process or not, so adding it first will be safest. 
Triggering the calibration process can be a bit tricky. I prefer to use the small button on the FGR-222.
After you calibrated, try the results by triggering the up and down via Homey to see if both the up and down timings are good. I'd test it again when installed and before closing everything up just to be sure it is all perfect.

obeliks

@JaapPelt, thanks for your quick answer. I connected the things like in the picture. The black wires at the left are functioning as a manual switch. No problem, I think?
I paired the Fibaro to Homey, but when I want to 'turn the sunscreens up or down' (turn the lightbulb on, of course) there are 2 clicks in the Fibaro, one second after each other. The light bulb does not turn on.
Of course I checked the bulb... I did not connect the 2 wires at the left to each other. It should work without the wires, right?

JaapPelt

obeliks, 
That is to be expected because the FGR-222 has not yet been calibrated. 
My first though was that the lamp did not have enough power, so I looked up the minimal voltage. The online manual has the parameters for the minimal voltage and programmable calibration listed! (http://manuals.fibaro.com/roller-shutter-2/ and scroll down to motor operation detection and motor operation time (NOT THE PDF)). This might makes this whole manual calibration unnecessary. 

The following example will calibrate the FGR-222 to 15 seconds.

Save the values and try to move the FGR-222 up and down. It should now click off after 15 seconds. 


If you want to continue with the manual calibration (Chuck Norris does not not program, Chuck Norris tames electronics into submission) you need to use the following wiring:

1) Turn both switches on (both lights should remain dark
2) B-button to start the calibration process as described in the manual. one light will turn on.
3) After 15 seconds (insert your own value here) turn of the first light. The FGR-222 will register the power-cut and turn on the second light. 
4) After 15 seconds (insert your own value here) turn off the second light. The FGR-222 will register the power-cut and finalize the calibration. 

obeliks

Hello @JaapPelt , it took a while, but yesterday I gave it a try, but it did not work...
I hoped the simple one (22,2,15) but that did not work with the bulb.

The other one did not work either; the bulb is not turning on after B-button calibration.

JaapPelt

obeliks said:

Hello @JaapPelt , it took a while, but yesterday I gave it a try, but it did not work...
I hoped the simple one (22,2,15) but that did not work with the bulb.

The other one did not work either; the bulb is not turning on after B-button calibration.

Ok, so you entered the 22,2,15. Then, you pressed the up of down switch and the device did not stay on for 15 sec? If you calibrate again after setting the values, it will override the 15 sec.

I'm sure we can figure this out. 
Perhaps you should reset to factory defaults and describe your steps in detail. The 22,2,15 should be the best bet. I can take out one fgr-222 and try it to follow along

obeliks

Hello @JaapPelt: Again,it took a long time (a little bit busy) and I tested it again.

I did a reset on the Roller Shutter 2, I connected the Roller Shutter 2 to the sunscreens, connected it to Homey, entered the 22,2,41 and pressed SAVE. ('Calibration on save' remains Unchecked)
When I press the up or down, it stays the same as a while ago: it goes up for 1 second (when I press up) en down for 1 second.
When I press STOP, the sunscreen moves, sometimes up, sometimes down. The wallswitch gives the same: 1 second up and 1 second down...
I never see the power changing: it stays at 0W

Blind position reports type: Z-Wave Command Class
Roller Shutter operating Mode: Roller Blind Mode, with positioning
Switch type: Momentary Switches

JaapPelt

@obeliks : Do you still have your light connected? Does the light turn on for 1 second?

The behavior of the stop button is expected as it is the opposite of your last command. 

obeliks

Hey @JaapPelt , thanks for the quick answer!
But because the bulbs did not work, I connected the Roller Shutter straight to the sunscreens to test, not to the bulbs anymore.
So these screens went up and down for about 1 second.

Edit after an hour:
Should it be necessary to put 18 on 0: http://manuals.fibaro.com/roller-shutter-2/ (See: 18)
Because of the Tweakers post: https://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1688839

I broke everything down, I hope I can test this tommorrownight...

JaapPelt

@obeliks: Damn, I missed that one when I first read the documentation. Lowering the treshhold was mentioned earlier in this topic, but I missed that it could be turned off completely.
I think 18 and 22 is exactly what you need. Let me know the results. 

obeliks

@JaapPelt, We made some progression! I did:



and the screens went up and down.
But after some ups&downs, one of the three screens didn't move anymore (got stucked in the middle) and I thought I burned the motor. But with the normal switch, the screen went up and down....

So, next problem...

JaapPelt

Hi @obeliks
Great news! I'm sure this solution will be helpfull for a lot of people. Well done.

Now to brainstorm about your glass (windows) half empty (covered) problem:
I have 3 rollershutters linked and they all take different times to go up and down. The difference is about 2-3 seconds. If the speed is the issue, you can simply "count" to check if you need to give it a bit more time. Does it take 35 seconds to come half way or does it stop earlier?
What happens if you change the time to 50 seconds? Any improvement?
It is a bit of a silly trick, but what if you trigger Homey to again after 36 seconds. Will it then go down all the way? (A bit of a ugly hack, but it might get you through the summer)

obeliks

No, that's not the problem.
My screens behave the same way as yours: they take different times to go up and down, so I indeed used a longer time then needed (in seconds). But at one moment, one screen stopped working, while the other two turned up and down.

For my test I only connected the Fibaro and not the switch. I reconnected the switch and I could change the one which got stucked to the right position (Up or Down) with the switch, not with Homey.

JaapPelt

Are your screens each controlled by their own FGR-222? or are they all controlled by one FGR-222? Swapping a FGR-222 might determine if the problem is in the screen or in the FGR-222.

@moderators: perhaps it would be nice to mark this topic as "solved" as the solution is provided 3 posts above. 

lubbertkramer

JaapPelt said:

@moderators: perhaps it would be nice to mark this topic as "solved" as the solution is provided 3 posts above. 

Modbreak:
Marked as solved so other can find the answer here, topic stays open for support / questions