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This forum is now read-only for archive purposes.
KAKU ACM-3-3500 for automating ventilation
Caros
Member
Hi Guys,
I could use some help, hopefully you know this. I want to try to automate my WTW. Flows etc. will come later. First I'm trying to find a solution to switch between the three settings.
Hereby the details (please forgive my paint skills
)
- WTW: is a ventilation unit from Brink from 2003 (Brink Renovent HR Medium), link to manual
- Left bottom in the drawing is the inner of my 3 position switch, outer looks like something like this. As you can see there are three positions. Turning off is not posible withouth physically pulling the plug.
- Right bottom in the drawing is the inner of my ventilation unit
- Top two parts are ACM-3-3500 with electricity
At the moment the switch Left bottom in the kitchen is directly connected to the right bottom, the ventilation unit itself. Two questions:
1. Will this work?
2. Am I able to use both the physical 3 position switch and the ACM-3-3500, or do I have to remove the 3 position switch and only use the ACM-3-3500.
I could use some help, hopefully you know this. I want to try to automate my WTW. Flows etc. will come later. First I'm trying to find a solution to switch between the three settings.
Hereby the details (please forgive my paint skills
)- WTW: is a ventilation unit from Brink from 2003 (Brink Renovent HR Medium), link to manual
- Left bottom in the drawing is the inner of my 3 position switch, outer looks like something like this. As you can see there are three positions. Turning off is not posible withouth physically pulling the plug.
- Right bottom in the drawing is the inner of my ventilation unit
- Top two parts are ACM-3-3500 with electricity
At the moment the switch Left bottom in the kitchen is directly connected to the right bottom, the ventilation unit itself. Two questions:
1. Will this work?
2. Am I able to use both the physical 3 position switch and the ACM-3-3500, or do I have to remove the 3 position switch and only use the ACM-3-3500.
Comments
I think about a solution, but I don't know something else.
It is Homey or the switch. Not next to each other.
Maybe is someone else real smart for a solution.
That Kaku switch puts mains on the 3 outputs and your WTW operates on low voltage, so don't do it unless you want to have a blast
See your manual on page 5, near the end of section 2.5.1.
You can use the AMU-500 from Kaku instead. It has 1 potential free contact. You can wire P and 3 from the WTW terminal to the AMU-500. You can then toggle between high and low ventilation.
You can also look for another device, not Kaku, with two potential free changeover switches to select any of the three speeds.
@Lammy, also thanks! This was something I was afraid off and wanted to confirm it.
I don't see how you can toggle between high and low with one input. The P-wire will be connected with both High and Low when you toggle the AMU-500 on?
This was my idea now, don't see how to make 3 speeds possible with two potential free contacts:
Manual
No matter what state you put S1 and S2 in, P will always be connected to only 1, 2, or 3.
In your case the connection to 1 is redundant, if P is not connected to anything, your WTW defaults to 1 (you still need 2 switches though).
You can use the AMU-500 for that.
The longer I look, the simpler it should be
Default is Low setting (without wires connecteted)
With the red cable on the IN pin it should, I could switch between Low (do nothing), Medium (switch Q1) and High (Switch Q2).
Most likely it doesn't cause any problems and the WTW will simply choose the highest speed, but the manual doesn't mention it. (That's quite common for other brands: you can have two switches in parallel and the one with the highest demand gets priority).
If you want to avoid that possibility you need a second switch.
@Lammy
I've just implemented the FGS222 and it works flawless. When Q1 and Q2 are both closed the WTW works on lowest speed. When they both are open it works like you assumed on the highest speed. This last situation will never occur, since in the flows I keep in mind that always the other one has to be closed.
Again many thanks for your answers!
and the outputs connected on the unit (L3, L2, L1)
The normal Periplex switch is still working
Just in case you don't know what else to automate
On the place of the 3 position switch I've now wall mounted a CO2/Humidity sensor! This sensor is powered by 12V DC adapter. When I measure the 230V input of the 12V adapter I get a max of 2Watt. Do you think I can reuse the signaling cable (2 wires from the 4), for using this as 'power cable' for the sensor for the 12V transport, so I can get my cables out of sight?
https://www.robbshop.nl/domotica/z-wave-projecten/z-wave-badkamer-ventilatie
@Caros, I'll have a look sometime this week. Keep you posted.
I have the same setup with the ITHO fanbox and with the KaKu 3 way switch. Now I'm wondering the following:
The box supports 3 ways (1, 2 and 3) in the normal setup. You can't switch it of, but using the ACM-3500-3 it is possible to switch it of (no power on out1, 2 and 3).
Let's say I don't want to have an option to switch it off (like in the normal setup it also is normal behavior), to my knowledge I always have to power out1(L1 of the perilex). To have it in the mid position L1 and L2 are switch on and in the highest position L1 and L3 are switched on.
Can I just connect L1 directly to the box? so not through kaku switch? This will only leave out2 and 3 to switch, based upon the position the fan needs to be in. And this can be solved with and Fibaro 2-way switch (FIB_FGS-223).
Please tell me if this don't make any sense at all and it will destroy the Itho box or...... tell me if this could be a working solution