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pulse switches ´if on then off ´ ´if off then on´

Hi,

I would like to replace my light switches with pulse switches, pulsdrukkers in dutch.

with that, I would like to use the switches in such a way that when lights in living room are switched on the press of button will result in lights going off and vice versa

I would like to install regular GIRA puls switches with some kind of domotica switch connected to that, which would give a trigger to the homey

currently using klik-aan-klik.uit, but that sends out an on signal or an off signal (which might not match the current actual state)

any idea what kind of domotica switch could be used to just give a trigger to homey to change a state (from 1 to 0 to 1 to 1 etc)?

Comments

  • there is a flow card for most lights where you can flip the state instead of selecting on/off.   You could try that or alternatively have the the switches set a variable,  and a flow for the lights to respond when the variable changes. 
  • AndyWilde said:
    there is a flow card for most lights where you can flip the state instead of selecting on/off.   You could try that or alternatively have the the switches set a variable,  and a flow for the lights to respond when the variable changes. 
    tnx, what kind of hardware would you use behind the light switch to transfer the signal to the homey?
  • It depends on what functionality you need,  I use lightwaverf but that does not give any feedback if the switch is on or off,  Fibaro will provide that feedback and also power usage if you need it.
  • the dimming/switching functions are all placed at the lightbulbs, so the functionality required is just simply to signal / trigger the homey (independant of any light module)
  • So basically any wirefree switching will do for you,  this is one example

    http://lightwaverf.com/product-category/wire-free-switching/
  • JacobJacob Member
    Plessers read the manual of e.g. the fibaro switches. A pulse switch and the appropriate switch configuration will do what you want 
  • Just looking for something to put behind a regular switch which can transmit an rf signal to homey which triggers something, not including a dimmer or not a complete transmitter including buttons front

    Basically the lightwaverf example but without the front so I can put it behind my normal switch
  • I've adjusted the KAKU AWST-8800 switch. Took it apart and soldered wires to the push buttons which are connected to a Jung 531-41U switch.
    The Jung 531-41U is an pulse switch which normally stays in the middle position.
    If I press the bottom of the switch the light will switch on, if I press the top the light will switch off.
    The same as the AWST-8800 but with the Jung switch instead of the cheap KAKU switch.

    When removing the corners of the KAKU switch it will nicely fit behind the Jung switch.
  • vsubvsub Member
    I would recommend to use Z-Wave modules (relays or dimmers) behind your wallswitches. Pulse switches are not required, but make operating a lot easier and intuative, since it's always in the same position (whether you switch local or remotely). For dimmers it's a must, since you can than dim by holding the button...

    Like @Jacob suggested, Fibaro modules are a great choice. I use Qubino modules, which work the same, but support energy measurement (newer Fibaro's now also, I believe) and lower loads, like LED bulbs (without an additional bypass).

    Besides reporting the current on/off state, these modules will still work without a controller (heck, even without a signal). Because of the mesh networking, they also extend each others range and reliability, plus commands are acknowledged (indicating whether it succeeded).

  • RikPost said:
    I've adjusted the KAKU AWST-8800 switch. Took it apart and soldered wires to the push buttons which are connected to a Jung 531-41U switch.
    The Jung 531-41U is an pulse switch which normally stays in the middle position.
    If I press the bottom of the switch the light will switch on, if I press the top the light will switch off.
    The same as the AWST-8800 but with the Jung switch instead of the cheap KAKU switch.

    When removing the corners of the KAKU switch it will nicely fit behind the Jung switch.
    Ah that´s the idea I´m looking for! tnx!

    the most perfect solution would be a AWST-8800 variety where it is not battery operated but 220 v.....but seen the reactions so far that probably is not possible
This discussion has been closed.